Another incredible voyage aboard a Viking ship, lasting 18 days, from Buenos Aires to Valparaiso. Only my 4th cruise with Viking, but already I feel like I’ve done a lot with them. Well, this is also my 72nd cruise, period. And the first time I’ll be visiting Ushuaia and Cape Horn, among other places, in this region of the world.
This is also my 3rd cruise on the Viking Jupiter, after my discovery of this company in 2021, with the tour of Iceland, then a transatlantic which should have ended in Buenos Aires but which found itself blocked just opposite, in Montevideo, because of a quarantine imposed by a strong resurgence of covid (omicron). The only other ship I took was the Viking Saturn, for an exploration of the Norwegian fjords up to the Arctic Circle, in 2023.
The ships in the fleet are virtually identical to each other. The Viking Jupiter, however, offers, along with its sister ship, the Orion, a 360° dome cinema, which is absent from all the other ships (much to my regret!).
In short, once on board, you really get that feeling the brand promotes: of being at home. But before embarking, spend a few days in Buenos Aires; this city is definitely worth it.
Buenos Aires, ancient and modern at the same time
The first thing that strikes you in February 2024 is the runaway inflation. This translates very concretely into changing a few hundred euros and finding yourself with several bundles of bills. You would almost need a briefcase to carry them, like in a spy movie!
And in contrast, the grilled meat restaurants that Argentina is famous for are incredibly inexpensive. And the sheer quantity of meats on the menus is as surprising as the downright cheap prices. It was impossible to finish the assortment we had chosen, for around 20 euros to 2… 10 euros per person!
After a long flight from Paris, and a good night’s rest, the first day on site was devoted to a very touristy visit around the historic center.
One of the must-sees is the covered market El Mercado San Telmo. It’s teeming with all kinds of stalls, and of course, something to eat and drink at every intersection. Empanadas, excellent coffee, barbecue and grilled meats… and even a very Swiss raclette stand! The surprise came from a Belgian expat, running a french fries stand with his wife and boasting of making the best fries in the world, no less! In any case, his “real Belgian fries” are without a doubt the best I’ve ever eaten in my life.
Day 2 allowed us to discover magnificent parks and the French Quarter. The buildings, seen at night, give yet another impression of the city.
On the last evening before boarding the Viking Jupiter, we were able to secure a table at a 2-Michelin-starred restaurant in Buenos Aires, Aramburu (we had booked long in advance, and the restaurant is always full). Obviously, this place stands out for its prices in the context of Argentina. But it has nothing to envy from its competitors elsewhere on the planet, including in France.
The dinner is advertised as 18 courses. A succession of small dishes, each more surprising than the last. Distinctive, refined flavors, and a story to tell each time. Some signature dishes are served by the very friendly chef himself. At the end of the meal, guests are invited to leave the table and head upstairs for the final portion of the meal: desserts.
Among the highlights are an oyster in a delicate cream, perfectly grilled octopus, barbecued Wagyu beef, and a trompe-l’oeil dessert: an avocado, with a slight hint of avocado in one of the creams it’s made from, amidst other sweet flavors. We won’t regret this tasting journey.
After this very pleasant stay in Buenos Aires, it is time to board the Viking Jupiter, next page.
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